Tokyo · From the archive

Tokyo Shinjuku

Preserved in the archive in 2005. Historical article; travel and business details may have changed.

Shinjuku (新宿) is a major district of Tokyo for work or play. The west side of Shinjuku, a seismically stable area that escaped the last earthquake with nary a scratch, is Tokyo’s skyscraper district featuring (among others) the gargantuan Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices. Microsoft has a major office (with an imposing sign) just across the street from the south exit of the station. The east side of Shinjuku is devoted to shopping and nightlife, including Tokyo’s largest red-light district Kabukicho and gay nightlife central Shinjuku ni-chome. Nearby Okubo, one stop west of Shinjuku on the Chuo line (also Shin-Okubo, on the Yamanote), has many Korean-owned restaurants and grocery stores. Takadanobaba, another stop past Shin-Okubo, is popular with students from nearby Waseda University. Get inBy train Train is the obvious option for arrival, as Shinjuku Station is on the JR Yamanote, Chuo, Sobu, and Saikyo lines. The Keio and Odakyu private railways stop here as well. If that isn’t enough there are the Metro Marunouchi, Toei Shinjuku and Toei O-Edo lines here as well. By some measures this is the busiest railway station in the world; try to board the Marunouchi towards Tokyo Station at 8 AM on a Monday morning if you doubt this. There is also Narita Express train and limousine bus service to and from Narita Airport. By bus Not a few highway buses for points throughout Japan depart from the bus station near the east exit (opposite Yodobashi), most notably those heading to Mt. Fuji. See The Metropolitan Government Center observatories at a height of 202 meters on the 45th floor, have Tokyo’s best views — and they’re completely free! The dystopian colosses were designed by noted architect Kenzo Tange. The North Observatory is open daily from 9:30 AM to 10 PM (except Monday), while the South Observatory is open daily from 9:30 AM to 5:30 PM (Mondays until 10 PM, Tuesdays closed). The gigantic tower resembling a granite Empire State Building, south of the station, is the headquarters of NTT DoCoMo, Japan’s largest cell-phone carrier. Shinjuku Gyoen is a large public garden, and one of the most popular places for viewing cherry blossoms in the spring. It has an English garden, a Taiwanese teahouse, and a botanical conservatory. It’s a ten-minute walk east from JR Shinjuku station. For people watching, the place to be is the large square in front of the station’s Kabukicho entrance, next to the Studio Alta shopping center. Hanazono Shrine in Kabukicho off Yasukuni-dori is more remarkable for its location than its appearance, but it’s a nice place to take a breather. Tokyo Opera City is a skyscraper with a shopping centre and art museum that often has interesting multimedia exhibits. Take the Shinjuku Line subway to Hatsudai station. BuyThe major department stores all have branches here, most of them along the wide Shinjuku-Dori avenue on the east side. On the south side, Tokyu Hands is a fun store for hobbies, decorating stuff, and gifts. Takashimaya department store is also here. If you need foreign language books, there are two branches of Kinokuniya  in Shinjuku; the newer, larger branch is just south of Tokyu Hands, and the older one is on Shinjuku-Dori. Major discount camera stores are concentrated on both sides of Shinjuku station, although there is a particularly large cluster just outside the West Exit. The undisputed king Yodobashi has branches on practically every block; note that the branches specialize, so you may have to look for the right branch to find what interests you (digital cameras, video cameras, medium-format photography…?). The other major names are Sakuraya and Bic. These stores have been transformed by computers and the internet, and their computer departments match Akihabara in volume, price, and selection. Don Quijote (http://www.donki.com/e/index.html) (1-16-5 Kabuki-cho, see map (http://www.donki.com/japp/shop/ShopDetail.dk?shop\_id=29&lang=en)), on Yasukuni-Dori is a hectic 24-hour discount store that sells just about everything that you would never imagine needing at three in the morning but might just pick up anyway, such as clothing, bicycles, electronics, jewellery, and gag gifts. The Nishi-Shinjuku district, northeast of the JR station, is packed with music shops specializing in various genres such as punk and heavy metal. Many sell nothing but bootlegs and collectibles. EatThe Lumine and MyLord department stores atop the south side of the JR station both have inexpensive restaurant arcades on their upper floors. Japanese Kappō Nakajima (割烹 中島), Shinjuku 3-32-5 basement (Southeast exit, in the narrow street east of Ohtsuka Furniture), closed Sundays. Specializes in sardine dishes. Yanagawa teishoku is deep-fried sardines with scrambled eggs on rice. (Tastes better than it sounds.) Shunka Shuto (春花秋灯), 53rd floor of Tokyo Opera City (see above), 03-5353-7111. Enjoy the view while dining on seafood and other specialties of Hokkaido. Ethnic Rose de Sahara (03-3379-6427, South exit, on Koshu-Kaido-Dori) offers fried alligator and other African foods. Bosphorus Hasan (03-3354-7947, Shinjuku 3-chome) has authentic Turkish food. Tainan Taami (Taiwanese) and Keuwjai (Thai) in the second basement of the Lumine 1 department store are two good places for Asian street-stall style food. Located right next to each other, both places are packed and hectic for lunch, with attendants hollering to attract customers. Café Haïti, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-19-2 B1F, 03-3346-2389. Strong coffee and spicy curry. DrinkDistricts The Kabukicho district, to the northeast of JR Shinjuku station, is Tokyo’s most notorious red-light district. It’s always packed with people, and though outsiders are generally not involved, quite a bit of gangland violence goes on in the vicinity. In addition, the closely-packed mah-jongg and strip clubs are fire hazards that rival Hong Kong high-rises. To the south of Kabuki-cho is Shinjuku ni-chome, Tokyo’s largest gay district. Golden Gai (gai meaning street) is the name given to a few narrow alleys in a block on the east edge of Kabukicho. It’s packed with tiny, grimy “hole-in-the-wall” bars. If you’re desperate for a drink and very adventurous, try your luck at any of the unmarked doors. On the west side of the Yamanote tracks, Omoide Yokocho (“Memory Lane”) is a small alley filled with yakitori joints. The tunnel under the tracks near the entrance of Omoide Yokocho is nicknamed “gokiburi yokocho” (cockroach lane) or “shonben yokocho” (piss lane). No prizes for guessing why. Pubs and taverns The Dubliners, Shinjuku 3-28-9, 03-3352-6606 (Two minutes from JR east exit). Down a pint of Guinness and mingle with the local expats. Clubs Tokyo’s most famous techno club, the Liquid Room (http://www.liquidroom.net/), used to be in Kabukicho but has now moved to Ebisu. Looking for accommodation in Tokyo? Please support our site by using our hotel reservation system Tokyo Hotel (Article from/based on Wikitravel article and may be copied freely) |

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